Pho, a dish born from centuries of external influence and occupation, has become the international dish of Vietnam and a staple of Vietnamese life. To the unconverted eye Pho seems simple and dirty bowl of brown-water noodles. That’s calling Miles Davis a guy who plays the trumpet or Johnny Depp another actor. The complexity of flavors and almost infinite combination of condiments make for a truly beautiful and personal noodle experience. Pho is a conceptually simple dish. Rice noodles called Vermicelli build the starch base of the meal. The meat, traditionally beef, a French influence, works along with the Vermicelli to make pho a filling dish, but is by no means the centerpiece of the dish.
If it’s not the noodles and not the meat, then what is Pho? Simply put it is a broth that is ever changing through the dining experience; everything else is just a part of the bigger whole.
When Pho is first served the broth, barely holding itself together, acts as a final hit of heat softening the Vermicelli, cooking the slivers of rare beef and leaching its fat.
Simultaneously the broth is a canvas awaiting the diner’s addition of condiments that serve a dual purpose, both opening flavors and cooling the broth. If there is one condiment that pho cannot be fully experienced without it’s fish sauce, this is like adding wine while cooking tomatoes. The flavors that fish sauce unlocks are truly mesmerizing. Sambol is Suracha’s chunky sister whose way more fun to party with, and she gives the dish a great depth of spice. While lime juice acts as the great equalizer, corralling little flavor particles and giving the dish a supreme balance.Then there are there are the fresh condiments basil, sprouts and peppers. If nothing more Pho is a delicious medium for Vermicelli and thin cuts of beef so why not add basil, the tastiest of the leafy greens. Peppers, often Jalapeños here in the states, give Pho a mellow heat and a healthy crunchiness. While the sprouts high water content cool the broth, and congeal the flavors.
As the broth cools and the flavors mend something beautiful happens. As the spoon breaks the surface tension of the broth releasing strong aromatic flavors, and the chopsticks struggle to separate and collect the perfect combination of noodle, meat and vegetable the broth becomes a playground. A fun place; where American cuisine is scared to venture. As the broth continues to cool and new flavors arise Pho becomes a truly personal experience. The cook may have built the stock and added the meat, the waiter served the bowl but in the end the diner created the meal.
Been eating a bit of Pho as of late, but my question lies in the Pho-ken etiquette. I have seen a right handed chopstick combined with a left handed spoon, I have seen a straight right handed spoon, I have seen a straight right handed chopstick and I have see someone just pick up the Pho-ken bowl and get after it. Is it alright to drink from the bowl when all the goodies have been eaten? In addition, how much meat is the proper amount? I feel like I need more meat in my bowl. Is it faux pas to ask for extra meat in my bowl? Help me!
ReplyDeletePho-ken New Guy
Ok Surf I got you buddy and we’re going to walk through this one together. In regards to the spoon and sticks there isn’t much etiquette in usage, but due to the depth of flavor possible in a Pho dish and the infinite in-spoon-combinations it is best to ask for and use an Asian soupspoon. Western soupspoons just don’t do most noodle dishes justice. Also the spoon can act as a catch for any liquid that may roll off veggies and meat, rather than your shirt. The chopsticks use whichever hand will allow for most Pho-to-mouth interaction with minimal spillage.
ReplyDeleteDrinking from the bowl is acceptable, as far as I have found. And though some Foodies may tell you that it’s not polite or too salty, lets look at this as a dish for the common laborer in Vietnam. For these people Pho is typically a breakfast dish and may be the only real meal of a backbreaking day, fuck yeah they most likely drink that broth. So raise a toast to those arduous Asian agrarians and drink that broth.
The proper meat will vary with the Pho spot you go to. Soon I will attempt to make my own broth for those without quality Pho in their area. But until that post it should be know quality and variation do exist. Not all Pho is made equal, and while some Pho could, in theory, run this country. Other Pho has as much chance of turning out great, as the offspring of two Tennessee cousins who fooled around in the tool shed.
There are also regional variations; Northern style Pho from Hanoi will generally be more of a meat and noodle dish while Saigon or southern Pho will be a bit lighter on the meat and heavy on the veggies. Regardless if you feel there is a lack of meat you may want to find a new spot or look into an extra large option, some places have it but not all.
Lastly in regards to your question about extra meat that’s fine to ask after all Pho is your dish. Here is a link the layout isn’t the best but it runs through some basic ordering etiquette.
http://www.lovingpho.com/pho-opinion-editorial/tips-ordering-pho/